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After our long drive to Civitavecchia, the moment we had been waiting for with excitement came - boarding the ferry to Sardinia. For us, it was our first car and dog trip on this route, and for Izzy, a great adventure.
Sailing lasts about 7-8 hours. We left almost at midnight. The ship itself resembles a cruise - with escalators, reception, lobby, restaurants, bar and pool on the top floor. We had booked a cabin, but let's be honest - even though we'd been on a ferry many times before, and had run boats around the Mediterranean ourselves, the cabin felt like it was moving in an uncomfortable way, and it took us about an hour and a few trips out on deck to get back to our beds. Izzy had no problem with either the ship or the cabin 😀 )
The ferry docks at the port of Olbia. Even watching the ship stop you can see that the city is big. Bigger than we expected. From there to San Teodoro where we stayed overnight is about a 30 minute drive. San Teodoro is lively, in the evening the centre is pedestrianised and there are lots of shops, restaurants, bars.
It turned out that in Sardinia it is not very easy to find a beach that is open for dogs during the day. Most beaches are off limits to dogs from 8am to 8pm. Near San Teodoro is the Cala Brandinchi beach, and if you rent an umbrella and sunbed from Giardini di Brandinchi - you can enter with a dog. They have arranged things so that people with dogs are not next to each other, so as not to create unpleasant situations between the animals 🙂 .
The umbrellas and sun loungers are in a garden, you are surrounded by plants, stepping on fresh green grass. You have showers, toilets, a bar, wooden benches with tables in the forest. A few metres down the sand you can see the beach itself.
Most of the beach is free, i.e. you bring your own umbrellas and sunbeds/chairs. But it is mandatory to register 48hrs in advance to be able to get on the beach at all. If you've rented an umbrella for Giardini di Brandinchi (or similar area), you don't need to register to enter. Parking is also available for a fee.
Cala Brandinchi impresses with white and fine sand, exceptionally clear water, beautiful colours and shallow water. You walk metres and metres in and the water hardly reaches your waist.
The beach is about 700 meters long and accommodates about 1400 people (not counting the paid areas). This is the reason to make reservations in advance.
In the sea there was a boat - a shop where various ornaments were sold. And as the sea was up to people's knees - to sell on the boat was practical and interesting.
About 55 km from San Teodoro is the Golfo di Orosei Natural Park. There are many beaches there, one of which is the popular Cala Goloritze, which, however, was impossible for us to go to. We visited Oasi Biderosa, which is a little piece of paradise. 5 bays are at your disposal, with a bar on Oasi 3. You turn off the main road and then there is about 5km of dirt road through the forest, past the lake and river... There is parking and a chemical toilet next to each bay.
Each bay is large enough, and the area is free. You should bring umbrellas, sun loungers/towels, food and water.
The water is shallow again, there are some rocks in places, but it also depends on which bay you are in. The sand is fine, there are no people around you and you can relax for hours.
You need to book online again to be let into the bays with your car. If you don't have a reservation, and they are out of seats - you can bike to get there, although there were people on the road with bikes and it looked pretty tiring.
Apart from the beaches - in the park you can hike along various eco-trails that will take you to places with amazing views.
About 10km north of San Teodoro is the town of Porto Taverna and the beach of the same name.
The name itself is not as popular as La Cinta or Cala Brandinchi, but this beach is a real gem. It overlooks the majestic island of Tavolara, which rises dramatically from the sea.
Apart from the view of Tavolara Island, Porto Taverna surprised us with something else - behind the beach there is a small lake where flamingos live. As we walked along the sand towards the sea, our eyes fell on the pink birds walking peacefully in the water.
This gives the place a special charm - on one side you have the endless blue sea and the imposing shadow of Tavolara, and on the other - a lagoon where flamingoes dance in the shallows. The atmosphere is almost magical because you feel that you are both in the middle of wild nature and on a paradise beach.
It is this landscape that gives it a sense of uniqueness - as if you are in a place that is both wilderness and perfect harmony.
Sardinia welcomed us with a beauty that can hardly be described in words. From the excitement of our first ferry trip, to the warm welcome in Olbia and the tranquillity of San Teodoro, to the magic of the beaches and the encounter with the flamingos, every day was full of new impressions.
For us it was not just a holiday, but an experience that will remain in our hearts. And for Izzy - her first big sea adventure, which she welcomed with joy and curiosity. We watched her run on the sand, watch the birds with rapt attention and fall asleep at night tired and happy - and it reminded us that the true richness of travel is not in the places we see, but in the moments we share.
Sardinia will remain for us as a place of harmony - between sea and mountain, between nature and comfort, between us and Izzy. And we know for sure that one day we will return again.
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